![]() ![]() Got a good used head on eBay (maybe $150-200?) and a 5th gasket Symptoms ended up pointing to a toasted valve. Still putzed around OK for its intended use, albeit now without the overheating. This time the gaskets went in correctly, but the car still ran kind of funny. Had the motor out again in record time and swapped in the auto parts store gaskets Needing the car on the road ASAP, we scrounged up two over the counter gaskets from chain auto parts stores, all of which seemed to only stock one We realized the gaskets weren't as symmetrical as they looked and we had put them in backwards (alcohol may or may not have been a factor as well) On the first start up, oil shot sky high from between the head and block on the driver side Installed the gaskets and had the motor back in the car a couple hours later Had the motor go from installed and running to hanging from a cherry picker in 45 minutes Ordered some head bolts and recommended "Six Star" gaskets The job was so easy that you can screw it up and redo it multiple times in the collective span of a few hours. Needed a HG. We felt kind of defeated, but another buddy convinced us that the HG job was super easy. Turned out it was, because it overheated on the drive home. A few years back, I went with a buddy to buy a NA/Auto Forester that was priced so low it seemed too good to be true. I'm actually doing a BMW 6 cylinder head right now using the top of my Grandma's old glass coffee table lol I do a figure 8 motion on the sandpaper unlike his back and forth in the video as I feel it gives a more uniform finish. USE A FEL-PRO MULTILAYER HEADGASKET OR A SUBARU TURBO HEADGASKET!!! That will save you doing this job again.įirst time I did this I had it done over a 3 day weekend, it's all very straightforward. While it is out throw some spark plugs in it, replace the valve cover gaskets and do a quick valve adjustment, slap it back in and enjoy it for another 100,000 miles. I even DIY the head resurface rather than pay a machine shop, it's really easy with a piece of thick glass and some 400 grit sandpaper glued on. Once it's out just pull apart the timing belt setup (now's the perfect time to replace all of that including idlers and water pump) and pop the heads off. The only thing you need to get at from underneath is to drain the oil, coolant, unbolt the two motor mounts and the exhaust manifolds (which is easy on these as the bolts are directly accessible rather than buried on the side of a head against the firewall in a normal car). These motors are very easy to pull, all of the transmission bolts can be removed from under the hood, the power steering and AC can just be set aside and the intake comes off as one unit with all the fuel rails and everything attached. Don't throw away that motor because the headgaskets are gone, it's pretty easy to do them on these as you don't need to disassemble the heads to get them off. ![]()
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